Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear

Author: Winifred Aldrich

Publisher: John Wiley & Sons

ISBN: 1118372050

Category: Design

Page: 200

View: 582

Since the first edition was published in 1980, Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear has become established as the standard work on this subject and has proved invaluable as both a textbook for students and a reference source for the practising designer. In this fifth edition, the chapter on computer aided design now has full colour illustrations and reflects the growing importance of CAD to the industry and as a part of fashion and design courses. The rest of the book has been updated where necessary: in particular, new blocks for tailored shirts, new details on how to adapt men’s blocks for women’s wear, and a revision of sizing and labelling information. Colour is now used to differentiate the main groups of patterns and with its tried and tested layout with clear text and diagrams, Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear is an essential purchase for students of fashion and design.

Metric Pattern Cutting

Author: Winifred Aldrich

Publisher: Wiley-Blackwell

ISBN: 1405102780

Category: Design

Page: 208

View: 799

Since the first edition of Metric Pattern Cutting was published in 1975 to provide a straightforward introduction to flat pattern cutting, it has become the established textbook on the subject. The fourth edition continues to offer an introduction to the basic principles of pattern cutting, with a range of good basic blocks and examples of their application to garments. The original blocks and many of the pattern adaptations have therefore been retained. However, the great expansion of casual wear, cut in jersey or stretch fabrics, has led to the growth of ‘flat cutting’ with no darting to create the shape and this edition devotes a whole section to this type of cutting. The sections on computer-aided design and grading have been updated. The size charts of body measurements have been revised, reflecting the changing shape of women’s bodies. Also available from Blackwell Publishing Metric Pattern Cutting for Children’s Wear and Babywear Third Edition Winifred Aldrich 0 632 05265 1 Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear Third Edition Winifred Aldrich 0 632 04113 7 Pattern Cutting for Women’s Tailored Jackets Winifred Aldrich 0 632 05467 0 Fabric, Form and Flat Pattern Cutting Winifred Aldrich 0 632 03917 5 Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear Second Edition Ann Haggar 1 405 11858 X Fashion Source Book Kathryn McKelvey 0 632 03993 0 Illustrating Fashion Kathryn McKelvey and Janine Munslow 0 632 04024 6 uhttp://www.blackwellpublishing.com/pdf/aldrich.doc

Metric Pattern Cutting for Women's Wear

Author: Winifred Aldrich

Publisher: John Wiley & Sons

ISBN: 1444335057

Category: Architecture

Page: 256

View: 835

Provides a straightforward introduction to the principles of form and flat pattern cutting. To help you produce well-cut, inventive designs, you are supplied with a good range of basic blocks, a simple and flexible system of patterns and examples of their application to garments. The updates include a brand new layout, new size charts to reflect the changes in body sizing, along with updates to the CAD section and certain blocks, illustrations and diagrams. Part one: demonstrates form pattern cutting and includes basic blocks and adaptations for a wide range of garments Part two: covers the basic processes of pattern adaptation used for the construction of sleeves and collars using both flat and form cutting methods Part three: demonstrates flat pattern cutting for a very wide range of garments and includes a comprehensive range of blocks and adaptations for garments of this style Part four: contains simple grading techniques and constructing and altering blocks for individual figures Part five: illustrates the latest software offered by CAD suppliers This best-selling textbook still remains the essential purchase for anyone looking to understand form and flat pattern cutting and to develop their own style of pattern cutting.

Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear, 5th Ed, Wiley, 2011

Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear

Author: Winifred Aldrich

Publisher: Buku Digital

ISBN: 1405182938

Category: Computers

Page: 309

View: 5466

Alterations and additions in this edition have been made in order to ally it to the recent changes in the new editions of my books on women's wear and children's wear. This has meant the re-organisation of the different sections of the book. The popularity of easy fitting styles and knitted fabrics has meant that basic 'flat' pattern cutting is used by a large sector of the retail mass-market. Manufacturers of this type of clothing are quite different from those who specialise in formal clothing such as suits. This latter type of manufacture involves 'form' pattern cutting, in which the body shape or the particular traditional style of the garment, dictates the cut. The introduction of colour in this book has improved the expanded CAD section, and the colour coded sections have made it easier to identify specific processes in the book. After Chapter One, 'The basic principles - sizing - using the blocks', the book is divided into five parts. Part One covers 'flat' blocks and pattern adaptation for a wide range of garments for leisurewear, workwear and nightwear. Part Two covers the pattern cutting of the basic sleeves and collars. These are standard processes that are used in almost all types of pattern cutting adaptations. Part Three demonstrates 'form' pattern cutting, this method requires blocks that conform more closely to the body form and often involves complex methods of cut and construction. This section includes basic blocks for classic formal garments; suits, shirts and coats. It also demonstrates the cutting of the types of leisurewear which some manufacturers like to cut to the male body shape. Part Four includes a chapter on simple grading techniques and also a chapter on altering patterns to fit the individual figure. Part Five illustrates the latest software offered by CAD suppliers for the menswear trade. The repetition of styles in this sector means that CAD is very applicable to the manufacture of men's clothing. CAD technology is now often integrated into design practices through product data management systems (PDM), which are often extended into product lifecycle management (PLM). Instant communication of procedures has become vital to companies designing in the UK but manufacturing overseas. The cost of CAD systems has reduced dramatically today, most clothing companies use some form of computer technology and the larger companies operate systems of considerable complexity. This edition now separates quite clearly the sections useful to students beginning to be interested in menswear design, (Parts One and Two). It also offers more advanced sections aimed at students who wish to have a career working in the more formal sector of the menswear trade. The book still remains true to its original concept, it aims to provide a simple flexible system of pattern cutting for menswear. It offers the student an opportunity to be inventive and to produce well-cut designs. The book includes many blocks (some revised) for traditional menswear shapes, for example, a variety of suit and shirt blocks, but it still concentrates on illustrating pattern adaptation. Rigid methods of pattern construction in the menswear trade often deterred many students from continuing their interest in designing for men. The book is written for students who have mastered the basic principles of pattern cutting for women; it allows them to transfer easily to exploring designs for men and to approach the subject in a creative way. Special note - seam allowances A number of colleagues have queried this book's procedure of using blocks that include seam allowances and of retaining them during pattern adaptation. This seems to conflict with the method of working without seam allowances which is used in my two previous books written for women's wear and children's wear. There is a practical reason for this apparent lack of consistency. My books have not been written to promote some particular theoretical approach to clothing design, but to help students to become competent in the basics of pattern cutting and therefore gain the confidence to develop their own 'cut'. Many students are bewildered when they enter industry and find that they have to work with seam allowances added to the pattern. The patterns constructed in many clothing companies are derived from previous styles and it is just not practical to work with nett patterns. I believe that it is useful for students, usually in the second or third year of their course, to have a book which demonstrates the procedure of pattern cutting with seam allowances and illustrates the problems of working in this way. It is possible to use this book for pattern cutting without added seam allowances. The introduction of CAD into the design rooms allows a company to work with nett patterns, but in practice this rarely happens as many companies modify previous styles. When the practice of nett pattern cutting on computers approaches a universal method, then this book will be revised accordingly. Design and pattern cutting for menswear The growth of fashion magazines for men has had a huge impact on male attitudes to fashion. They promote the image of the young affluent man, reflecting an aspiring lifestyle and a reference point for the current acceptable male image. GQ, a glossy magazine of almost three hundred pages, devotes less than one-third to features, the remainder is devoted to shopping, lifestyle and fashion. Fashion marketing for men is now accepted to the point where the weekend magazines of newspapers feature menswear in their mainstream fashion articles. The classic garments worn by men have remained remarkably resilient through the decades. Fashion may appear to simply revolve around classic shapes but it is renewed by the differences in style, cut, colour and the combination of garments and accessories. Men are especially attracted to conventional pieces with eccentric twists. If this is discreet, it can offer fashion longevity. The majority of men steer away from complicated pieces and impracticality. More extremes of fashion that are shown by designers and displayed in the fashion journals may appear to be dismissed by Highstreet fashion, but ideas such as deconstruction or close fitting extremes are interpreted and infiltrate into a season's fashion style. The silhouette created is the signature of a style; subtle or extreme variations of the basic garment shapes can radically change the look of a season. A simple change of cut to the classic pea jacket, the bomber jacket or the formal overcoat can transform them into a new fashion style. The mixing of sport and casual wear with formal wear has become accepted dressing in both the wearing of colour and in garment combinations. It has become conventional to wear polo shirts or tee shirts with a suit, or a formal jacket with jeans. This new acceptance of colour, print and new combinations of classic garments have produced a robust and acceptable fashion market for men. The past decade has seen a global perspective for men's fashion, with a growth in luxury brands and designer labels. Branded jeans are now a luxury item; customers will pay for the quality of the fabric, and most of all, the quality of the cut. The expansion of retail outlets that sell expensive garments and accessories may be halted as financial restraints impact on clothing sales. The demise of the suit has often been predicted but appears to be irreplaceable. A well cut suit still demands respect in many areas of business. The bespoke tailor can still compete with the retailed 'designer' suit, and young radical designers are still entering the trade. A number of these who began their careers in the bespoke trade still seek to retain a high quality level with their own label or when developing a range for a manufacturer. The defined styling change to a closer fit that occurred in the late nineties has remained, together with length variations, one buttoned suits, lapel designs and explorations with new fabrics (particularly stretch components). This closer fit has expanded into shirts and knitwear. This will not necessarily remain; a new silhouette will appear and be accepted. Manufacturers have to respond with speed to these kinds of mercurial changes. British industry, which is dominated by large manufacturing groups, is not as responsive as its continental competition where small companies have the flexibility to respond. The middle and lower end of the market is highly influenced by the prediction companies. The explosion of new fabrics has produced many problems for the mass-production market. The demands of the manufacturing process and the engineered garment have produced a rapid expansion of textile testing related to machinery use. This has also affected the cutting techniques that have to be employed when many of the new fabrics are used. New synthetics with a lack of tailorability require different cutting techniques. It is important to recognise that it is the handle of the fabric that is vital in the creation of garment shape. Mass-production and the engineered suit require quite different techniques from the bespoke suit. High-level performance fabrics have had a significant impact in high-cost casualwear and sportswear. There has been an emergence of complex garments with breathable membranes, inner shells and complex constructions of many pieces. Sportswear, career and workwear designs have become increasingly technologically based. Designers have to consider the garment function and body actions, the study of the technological developments of fabrics and their impact on garment manufacture. Innovation can be driven by new fabric and construction techniques. The ability to handle the production of these garments in many variations of style and cloth has been largely due to the adoption of computer aided design by many manufacturing companies. CAD is now more affordable, thus lessening any technological advantages held by the larger suppliers. The acceptance of changing shapes and proportions means that the fashion cycles and their themes are becoming as important in menswear as in women's wear. Designing for the male figure also holds attractions. It has motivated a number of top women's wear designers into bringing a fresh perspective to clothing collections for men. Tools and equipment for constructing patterns A student should aim to acquire a good set of equipment. However, some items are very expensive. The items marked with an asterisk denote those that are not essential immediately. Working surface A flat working surface is required. However, a tracing wheel will mark any polished or laminated top, therefore some protection must be given to this type of surface. Paper Strong brown or white paper is used for patterns. Parchment or thin card should be used for blocks that are used frequently. Pencils Use hard pencils for drafting patterns (2H). Coloured pencils are useful for outlining complicated areas. Fibre pens These are required for writing clear instructions on patterns. Rubber Metric ruler Curved rules These are used for drawing long curves. Metre stick Set square A large set square with a 45deg angle is very useful; metric grading squares can be obtained. Metric tape measure Tracing wheel Shears Use separate shears for cutting cloth and paper as cutting paper will blunt the blades. Sellotape Pins One-quarter and one-fifth scale squares These are useful for students to record pattern blocks and adaptations in their notebooks. Stanley knife Tailor's chalk This is used for marking out the final pattern onto the cloth and for marking alterations on the garment when it is being fitted. Toile fabrics Calico is used for making toiles for designs in woven fabrics. Make sure the weight of the calico is as close to the weight of the cloth as possible. Knitted fabric must be used for making toiles for designs in jersey fabrics; the toile fabric should have the same stretch quality. *Metric square This does not have to be the more expensive graduated tailor 's square based on a chest scale. The system in this book is based on a range of standard body measurements so the graduated square is of limited use. *Calculator The calculator is now a common tool in all areas of skill; it eliminates the hard work of calculating proportions and is accurate. If a calculator is not available, use the table of aliquot parts. *French curves Plastic shapes and curves are available in a range of sizes; they are useful for drawing good curves. A flexicurve that allows a shape to be manipulated is also available. *Pattern notcher This is a tool which marks balance points by snipping out a section of pattern paper. *Pattern punch *Pattern hooks *Pattern weights These keep pieces of pattern in position on paper or cloth. *Model stands Although not essential for a beginner, they are invaluable to the serious student for developing designs. *Computer equipment A description of computer equipment is given in Chapter 14. The equipment above can be obtained from: Morplan, 56 Great Tichfield Street, London W1W 7DF. Tel: 020 7636 1887; Website: www.morplan.co.uk Eastman Staples Ltd, Lockwood Road, Huddersfield HD1 3QW. Tel: 01484 888 888; Website: www.eastman.co.uk Aliquot parts If a calculator is not available for working out fractional parts, the following table can be used. (Figures in columns marked with an asterisk are calculated to one decimal place). neck size (cm)

Der große Fotoguide für die perfekte Passform

Author: Sarah Veblen

Publisher: Stiebner Verlag GmbH

ISBN: 3830709153

Category: Architecture

Page: 224

View: 5325

Auf dem Weg zu maßgeschneiderter Kleidung ist dieser Band eine unverzichtbare Grundlage: Präzise formuliert und mit Fotografien zu jedem Arbeitsschritt bestückt, führt die umfangreiche Anleitung zur perfekten Anpassung und Umsetzung von Schnitten für alle Basics der Damenbekleidung. In Wort und Bild erläutert wird hier nicht nur die exakte Vermessung für Blusen, Röcken, Blazer, Tuniken und Hosen, sondern auch die richtige Übertragung der Abmessungen auf vorhandene Schnittmuster. Darüber hinaus hält der Band Lösungsvorschläge bei Problemen mit der passgenauen Linienführung für alle Körperkonstitutionen bereit und ist damit ein praktischer Begleiter durch viele eigene Schneider-Projekte.

Fabric, Form and Flat Pattern Cutting

Author: Winifred Aldrich

Publisher: Wiley-Blackwell

ISBN: 1405136200

Category: Design

Page: 224

View: 2641

One of the more difficult aspects of a designer’s training is learning how to create patterns that make full use of the characteristics of individual fabrics. With an ever increasing range of fabrics available to the designer, an understanding of the relationship between fabric, form and pattern shape is now probably the most important skill a designer has to acquire. This book discusses the factors that need to be taken into consideration and offers a unique and practical method for solving problems. Its approach to design and flat pattern cutting is based on the appraisal of the fabric (according to a scale of five for each of five fabric characteristics – weight, thickness, sheer, drape and stretch) and body shape. The book is lavishly illustrated and makes use of numerous practical examples.

Oberteil-Grundschnittvariationen

Author: Harumi Maruyama

Publisher: Stiebner Verlag GmbH

ISBN: 3830709420

Category: Crafts & Hobbies

Page: 170

View: 9075

Wer großen Wert auf Individualität seiner selbstgeschneiderten Kleidung legt, findet in diesem Band eine reichhaltige Inspirationsquelle: Vorgestellt werden Entwürfe und Schnittmuster von verschiedenen Oberteilen, Ärmeln und Kragen. Auf dieser Grundlage kann nach Lust und Laune kombiniert und experimentiert werden, um das eigene Lieblingsstück zu designen und anzufertigen. Auch Anfänger können getrost ihre Scheu ablegen, denn Schritt-für-Schritt-Anleitungen stellen eine leicht verständliche Einführung in das Schnittzeichnen dar. Systematisch aufgebaut werden das Anfertigen von Schnittmustern für Grundmodelle, deren Variationsmöglichkeiten sowie die anschließende praktische Herangehensweise erläutert – abschließende Intensivkurse lassen Anfänger wie Fortgeschrittene über die raschen Erfolge staunen.

Schnittkonstruktion in der Mode

Grundschnitte

Author: Teresa Gilewska

Publisher: Stiebner Verlag GmbH

ISBN: 383073008X

Category: Crafts & Hobbies

Page: 224

View: 826

Dieses Grundlagenbuch von Teresa Gilewska erläutert detailliert alle grundlegenden Modeschnitte und ist damit unverzichtbar für angehende Kreative auf diesem Gebiet. Es lässt die Konstruktionen gängiger Kleidungsformen und -stile lebendig begreifen und legt so den Grundstein, um diese selbst weiterentwickeln sowie eigene Entwürfe skizzieren und umsetzen zu können. Auch Details wie Kragen-, Saum- oder Taschenvarianten kommen natürlich nicht zu kurz dabei konzentriert sich die Autorin jedoch immer auf ursprüngliche Formen, um diese dem Newcomer zunächst verinnerlichen zu lassen. Ein Band, der den Einstieg in die Modewelt spürbar leicht und Neugierde auf mehr macht!

Digitale Mode-Illustration mit Photoshop und Illustrator

Author: Kevin Tallon

Publisher: Stiebner Verlag GmbH

ISBN: 3830708521

Category: Architecture

Page: 175

View: 5095

»Adobe Photoshop« und »Illustrator« sind aus dem Gestalteralltag nicht mehr wegzudenken. Dieser Band richtet sich gezielt an Modedesigner und zeigt wie man mit diesen Programmen umgeht. Leicht nachvollziehbar und Schritt für Schritt werden hier Bildwelten geschaffen, die sich für Modemagazine, Präsentationen und Zeitungsbeilagen ebenso einsetzen lassen. Beginnend bei den Grundlagen wie Scannen oder der digitalen Kolorierung über komplexe Vorgänge wie der Erstellung von Vektorillustrationen oder dem Hinzufügen von Mustern und Texturen bis hin zu persönlichen Tipps des Autors ist »Digitale Mode-Illustration« ein universelles Lehrbuch für alle Kreative, die mit ihren Illustrationen erfolgreich sein möchten.

Metric Pattern Cutting for Children's Wear and Babywear

Author: Winifred Aldrich

Publisher: John Wiley & Sons

ISBN: 140518292X

Category: Design

Page: 216

View: 6877

This fourth edition of Metric Pattern Cutting for Children’s Wear and Babywear remains the standard text book but has three majorimprovements. First, the sections have been re-organised to reflect changes in producing and marketing children’s clothes. Today’s popularity of easy-fitting styles and knitted fabrics means that basic ‘flat’ pattern cutting is used to construct the majority of children’s wear and babywear and this type of cutting is therefore emphasised in this new edition. Shaped blocks and garments, cut to fit the body form, are still included, and are placed in chapters covering some school uniform garments or more expensive fashion or formal clothes. The book now clearly separates the sections useful to student beginners (Parts One, Two and Three), and also offers more advanced or specialist sections for students who wish to pursue a career in children’s wear or for designers working in the different manufacturing sectors of the trade. The second change in this fourth edition is the introduction of colour coding to the sections; this makes it easier to identify specific processes in the book and enhances the illustrations. Finally, the size charts have been revised to reflect the changes in body sizing. The clear division of the boys’ and girls’ measurements in the charts has been in response to the way clothes are marketed and to co-ordinate with European size charts. ‘Plus’ charts for heavier children have also been added.

Kalligrafie für Dummies

Author: Jim Bennett,Rainer Wiebe

Publisher: John Wiley & Sons

ISBN: 3527704140

Category:

Page: 366

View: 1019

Mit Schönschrift können Sie glänzen: Nicht nur bei Einladungen, Grußkarten oder Urkunden, Sie können auch mit Etiketten oder Aufschriften viele Alltags- und Gebrauchsgegenstände verschönern. Mit Jim Bennett können Sie die Kunst der Kalligrafie von der Pike auf lernen. Er erklärt Ihnen, welche Federn, welche Tinte und welches Papier Sie benötigen und zeigt Ihnen die grundlegenden Techniken, eine Feder richtig zu führen. Außerdem erklärt er Ihnen anhand vieler Beispiele zum Nachschreiben, wie Sie die gängigen Alphabete der Kalligrafie wie Unzial- und Frakturschriften auf das Papier zaubern.

Ledermode

Design, Fertigung, Nähbeispiele

Author: Francesca Sterlacci

Publisher: Stiebner Verlag GmbH

ISBN: 3830708653

Category: Architecture

Page: 192

View: 1203

Leder und seine Imitate sind ganz besondere Stoffe, die einen fachkundigen Umgang erfordern. Mit diesem Band sind Sie bestens gerüstet für individuelle und erfolgreiche Entwürfe, die sich die Stärken dieses Materials zunutze machen. Die Geschichte wird hierbei ebenso anschaulich vermittelt, wie der Prozess der Ledergerbung und schließlich der ganz praktische Umgang in der Verarbeitung. Mithilfe der präzisen Designanleitungen, Hinweisen zur Fertigungsplanung sowie durch zahlreiche Nähbeispiele kommen Kreative ihrer eigenen Lederkollektion ein großes Stück näher.

Schnittentwicklung

Author: Dennic Chunman Lo

Publisher: Stiebner Verlag GmbH

ISBN: 3830708750

Category:

Page: 240

View: 806

500 Elemente des Modedesigns

Formen, Stile, Stoffe

Author: Simon Travers-Spencer,Zarida Zaman

Publisher: N.A

ISBN: 9783258600130

Category:

Page: 144

View: 4394

Alexander McQueen

Author: Judith Watt,Alexander McQueen

Publisher: N.A

ISBN: 9783899105582

Category:

Page: 223

View: 3739