The Berg Companion to Fashion

Author: Valerie Steele

Publisher: Berg Publishers

ISBN: 1847885632

Category: Art

Page: 782

View: 9118

Derided by some as frivolous, even dangerous, and celebrated by others as art, fashion is anything but a neutral topic. Behind the hype and the glamour is an industry that affects all cultures of the world. A potent force in the global economy, fashion is also highly influential in everyday lives, even among those who may feel impervious. This handy volume is a one-stop reference for anyone interested in fashion -- its meaning, history and theory. From avedon to codpiece, dandyism to the G-string, Japanese fashion to subcultures, trickle down to Zoot suit, The Berg Companion to Fashion provides a comprehensive overview of this most fascinating of topics and will serve as the benchmark guide to the subject for many years to come. This volume contains over 300 in-depth entries covering designers, articles of clothing, key concepts and styles.

Mode Design Theorie

Author: Barbara Schmelzer-Ziringer

Publisher: UTB

ISBN: 3825244032

Category: Architecture

Page: 288

View: 6163

Mit ihrer radikalen Entwicklung vom gestalterischen Phänomen zur wissenschaftlichen Disziplin wird an Universitäten die Frage gestellt: Was ist Mode? Dieser Band bietet durch die Zusammenfassung von Theorien, interdisziplinäre Perspektiven, Klärung von Begriffen und die Analyse der "Modesprache" essentielle Information für alle im Bereich Mode Studierenden oder praktisch Tätigen.

Die Musik der Laufstege

Merkmale der Modenschaumusik

Author: Christina Zenk

Publisher: LIT Verlag Münster

ISBN: 364312807X

Category: Fashion

Page: 303

View: 6787

American Life and Fashion from Jeans to Jeggings

Author: Karen Frankel

Publisher: Cavendish Square Publishing, LLC

ISBN: 1608709256

Category: Juvenile Nonfiction

Page: 112

View: 766

Jeans are a type of trouser developed in 1873 and have been appropriated from work pants, typically worn by men, to the high fashion influence jeans have today. Jeggings are highly influenced by jeans, but what influenced the development from jeans to jeggings? How did the culture, political, and fashion influence decisions the designers made to develop their point of view? In this book, middle school readers will learn the answers to these questions and will be excited to understand how fashion designers use cultural and historical influences in their work. This book examines, decade by decade, how what was happening in the United Sates in culture, politics, and economics influenced fashion, specifically jeans, and vice versa throughout the post-World War II era. This high-interest book includes the history, current status and future of the art form and features rich illustrations, primary sources, and the historical and cultural context.

Ist Mode queer?

Neue Perspektiven der Modeforschung

Author: Gertrud Lehnert,Maria Weilandt

Publisher: transcript Verlag

ISBN: 3839434904

Category: Social Science

Page: 224

View: 2637

Kann Mode queer sein? Das Kombinieren von Kleidern, Accessoires und Stilen ist längst zur modischen Norm geworden und Unisex zum Trend urbanen Mode-Designs. Lässt sich das Konzept von Queerness angesichts der unentwegten Normierungen des Modesystems also überhaupt auf Mode beziehen? Wenn das Handeln mit Artefakten und Stilen ständig Bedeutungen verschiebt und neu konstituiert, hat es dann vielleicht auch das Potential, Gender- und andere Codes uneindeutig zu machen und in Bewegung zu bringen? Erstmals im deutschen Sprachraum präsentiert der Band systematische Reflexionen und exemplarische Analysen zum Verhältnis von Queerness und Mode und eröffnet damit der Mode- sowie der Gender-/Queerforschung neue Perspektiven.

Fashion Curating

Critical Practice in the Museum and Beyond

Author: Annamari Vänskä,Hazel Clark

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 1474287115

Category: Design

Page: 264

View: 6633

As the practice of fashion curation extends into commercial galleries, public and retail spaces, and even to the individual self, professional concepts of 'curating' are undergoing rapid change. Today, everyone is seemingly able to 'curate', but where does this leave the traditional understanding of curation as clothing collected and displayed in a museum? This thought-provoking volume explores the practice of fashion curating in the 21st century, bridging the gap between methods of display and notions of 'the curatorial' in fashion exhibitions, commercial settings, and the virtual world. From fashion's earliest forays into the museum to creative collaborations between luxury fashion brands and artists, this book challenges understandings of fashion curation by drawing on the palpably new spaces, places, and actors in today's curating scene. Exploring poetic and performative museum displays in venues such as the V&A, Somerset House, MoMu and the Royal Ontario Museum, alongside the ways that brands such as Dior, Chanel and Louis Vuitton have made use of 'the curatorial' in their own commercial strategies, Fashion Curating asks pressing questions about controversial funding and collaboration from the commercial fashion sector, and the limitations of producing exhibitions that are at the same time critical and popular. Bringing together approaches from fashion curators, designers and world-renowned academics, curation is positioned as a critical practice that opens up new ways of conceptualizing and theorizing fashion, challenging how we think and what we already know.

Gods and Kings

The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano

Author: Dana Thomas

Publisher: Penguin

ISBN: 1101617950

Category: Biography & Autobiography

Page: 432

View: 9577

More than two decades ago, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen arrived on the fashions scene when the business was in an artistic and economic rut. Both wanted to revolutionize fashion in a way no one had in decades. They shook the establishment out of its bourgeois, minimalist stupor with daring, sexy designs. They turned out landmark collections in mesmerizing, theatrical shows that retailers and critics still gush about and designers continue to reference. Their approach to fashion was wildly different—Galliano began as an illustrator, McQueen as a Savile Row tailor. Galliano led the way with his sensual bias-cut gowns and his voluptuous hourglass tailoring, which he presented in romantic storybook-like settings. McQueen, though nearly ten years younger than Galliano, was a brilliant technician and a visionary artist who brought a new reality to fashion, as well as an otherworldly beauty. For his first official collection at the tender age of twenty-three, McQueen did what few in fashion ever achieve: he invented a new silhouette, the Bumster. They had similar backgrounds: sensitive, shy gay men raised in tough London neighborhoods, their love of fashion nurtured by their doting mothers. Both struggled to get their businesses off the ground, despite early critical success. But by 1997, each had landed a job as creative director for couture houses owned by French tycoon Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH. Galliano’s and McQueen’s work for Dior and Givenchy and beyond not only influenced fashion; their distinct styles were also reflected across the media landscape. With their help, luxury fashion evolved from a clutch of small, family-owned businesses into a $280 billion-a-year global corporate industry. Executives pushed the designers to meet increasingly rapid deadlines. For both Galliano and McQueen, the pace was unsustainable. In 2010, McQueen took his own life three weeks before his womens' wear show. The same week that Galliano was fired, Forbes named Arnault the fourth richest man in the world. Two months later, Kate Middleton wore a McQueen wedding gown, instantly making the house the world’s most famous fashion brand, and the Metropolitan Museum of Art opened a wildly successful McQueen retrospective, cosponsored by the corporate owners of the McQueen brand. The corporations had won and the artists had lost. In her groundbreaking work Gods and Kings, acclaimed journalist Dana Thomas tells the true story of McQueen and Galliano. In so doing, she reveals the revolution in high fashion in the last two decades—and the price it demanded of the very ones who saved it.

The Berg companion

Author: Douglas Jarman

Publisher: Northeastern Univ Pr


Category: Biography & Autobiography

Page: 301

View: 6554

Critical Fashion Practice

From Westwood to Van Beirendonck

Author: Adam Geczy,Vicki Karaminas

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing

ISBN: 1474265553

Category: Design

Page: 232

View: 5342

There is a new form of design practice within the contemporary fashion industry which is active in complex forms of social commentary and critique. While fashion in the modernist era has shown signs of criticism and subversion, these were either in the form of subcultures or perversions, such as punk or BDSM styling. Today, however, these genres have been absorbed into the fashion industry itself, meaning that "critical fashion†? is now far from limited to the subcultures from which it came. This book explores this new space for criticism within the popular fashion sphere to demonstrate how designers are disrupting conventions, challenging beliefs and stirring change from within the system itself. Critical Fashion Practice considers a range of contemporary designers across the globe, from the US to Japan, whose conceptual designs embody this critical language, including case studies such as Rei Kawakubo's deconstructive silhouettes for Comme des Garçons and Walter Van Beirendonck's sadomasochistic menswear collections, amongst other key players such as Miuccia Prada, Vivienne Westwood and Viktor & Rolf. Arguing that the rise of critical fashion coincides with a noticeable decline in the criticality of art, Geczy and Karaminas go beyond slotting fashion into previously established art theories. Conceiving a new cultural role for fashion that affords insight into identity, class, race, sexuality and gender, this book shows how fashion can not only reflect and comment on, but can also be a part of social change.

Alain Delon

Style, Stardom and Masculinity

Author: Nick Rees-Roberts,Darren Waldron

Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing USA

ISBN: 162356445X

Category: Performing Arts

Page: 216

View: 4429

Few European male actors have been as iconic and influential for generations of filmgoers as Alain Delon. Emblematic of a modern, European masculinity, Delon's appeal spanned cultures and continents. From his breakthrough as the first on-screen Tom Ripley in Purple Noon in 1960, through two legendary performances in Rocco and His Brothers and The Leopard in the early 1960s, to his roles in some of Jean-Pierre Melville's most celebrated films noirs, Delon came to embody the flair and stylishness of the European thriller as one of France's most recognizable film stars. This collection examines the star's career, image and persona. Not only focusing on his spectacular early performances, the book also considers less well documented aspects of Delon's long career such as his time in Hollywood, his work as director, producer and screenwriter, his musical collaborations, his TV appearances, and his enduring role as a fashion icon in the 21st century. Whether the object of reverence or ridicule, of desire or disdain, Delon remains a unique figure who continues to court controversy and fascination more than five decades after he first achieved international fame.

Die Bibliothek des Monsieur Proust

Author: Anka Muhlstein

Publisher: Suhrkamp Verlag

ISBN: 3458733620

Category: Fiction

Page: 120

View: 4828

In Prousts Werk lesen alle: Bedienstete und ihre Herrschaft, Kinder und Eltern, Künstler, Ärzte, Gesellschaftsmenschen. Aber auch Proust selbst war ein großer Leser, stand im Ruf, alles gelesen und nichts davon vergessen zu haben. In seiner »Suche auf der verlorenen Zeit« werden Schriftsteller und Literatur auf vielfältige Weise Teil dieses großen Romans, wird die Literatur gewissermaßen zu einem Hauptprotagonisten. Proust definiert seine Figuren über ihre Lektüren und ihren literarischen Geschmack: »Um seine Figuren zu charakterisieren, drückt Proust ihnen ein Buch in die Hand«, schreibt Anka Muhlstein. Anka Muhlstein zeigt in ihrem kleinen Proust-Buch die zentrale Bedeutung von Literatur für Leben und Werk von Marcel Proust auf und entschlüsselt auf unterhaltsame Art Anspielungen, Motive, Zitate, Handlungs- und Charakterzüge. Entstanden ist so eine fundierte Einführung in Prousts großen Roman und zugleich ein amüsantes Vademecum für jeden, der Bücher liebt.

Female Chic

Thema Selection Die Geschichte eines Modelabels

Author: Gina Bucher

Publisher: N.A

ISBN: 9783905929874


Page: 500

View: 495

Zehn Gründe, warum du deine Social Media Accounts sofort löschen musst

Author: Jaron Lanier

Publisher: Hoffmann und Campe

ISBN: 345500492X

Category: Social Science

Page: 208

View: 3715

»Um „Zehn Gründe...“ zu lesen, reicht ein einziger Grund: Jaron Lanier. Am wichtigsten Mahner vor Datenmissbrauch, Social-Media-Verdummung und der fatalen Umsonst-Mentalität im Netz führt in diesen Tagen kein Weg vorbei.« Frank Schätzing Jaron Lanier, Tech-Guru und Vordenker des Internets, liefert zehn bestechende Gründe, warum wir mit Social Media Schluss machen müssen. Facebook, Google & Co. überwachen uns, manipulieren unser Verhalten, machen Politik unmöglich und uns zu ekligen, rechthaberischen Menschen. Social Media ist ein allgegenwärtiger Käfig geworden, dem wir nicht entfliehen können. Lanier hat ein aufrüttelndes Buch geschrieben, das seine Erkenntnisse als Insider des Silicon Valleys wiedergibt und dazu anregt, das eigenen Verhalten in den sozialen Netzwerken zu überdenken. Wenn wir den Kampf mit dem Wahnsinn unserer Zeit nicht verlieren wollen, bleibt uns nur eine Möglichkeit: Löschen wir all unsere Accounts! Ein Buch, das jeder lesen muss, der sich im Netz bewegt! »Ein unglaublich gutes, dringendes und wichtiges Buch« Zadie Smith


Unterwegs auf legendären Wegen

Author: N.A

Publisher: N.A

ISBN: 9783899559118


Page: 254

View: 4719

The Ladies' Companion

Author: N.A

Publisher: N.A


Category: Women's periodicals, English

Page: N.A

View: 1113


das Jahrhundert der Designer : 1900-1999

Author: Charlotte Seeling

Publisher: N.A

ISBN: 9783829029797

Category: Mode - Geschichte 1900-1999

Page: 655

View: 8979


Author: Sue Jenkyn Jones

Publisher: Stiebner Verlag GmbH

ISBN: 383070836X


Page: 240

View: 3001

Fashion Theory

Hacia una historia cultural de la moda

Author: Valerie Steele

Publisher: Ediciones Ampersand

ISBN: 9874161019

Category: Social Science

Page: 352

View: 3994

En los escritos reunidos en este libro, Valerie Steele –referente ineludible de los estudios de moda, traducida aquí por primera vez al español– aborda la moda desde diversas perspectivas, como un factor fundamental que moldea tanto la historia colectiva como la vida de los individuos. Como curadora y como autora, Steele ha marcado un antes y un después en nuestra comprensión del significado cultural de la moda, y los textos quecomponen este volumen dan cuenta de este importante aporte. Mediante el análisis de las pinturas de Manet, la figura del dandy en los escritos de Baudelaire o la circulación de imágenes de moda en la prensa femenina del siglo XIX, así como de hitos del diseño de moda del siglo XX y del relativamente reciente desembarco de la moda en museos, el presente libro explora el espacio que ocupan la moda y sus imágenes en las sociedades contemporáneas, así como sus relaciones con el consumo, la cultura urbana, la literatura y el arte. Desde el corset hasta los jeans, desde la elegancia de Chanel hasta el look de “refinamiento andrajoso” cultivado por intelectuales y académicos, Valerie Steele investiga con lucidez, rigurosidad y una agradable cuota de humor el fenómeno del vestir en los más diversos contextos. Como objetos de consumo o como piezas de museo, el deseo se entreteje en las prendas y las transforma en instrumentos de tortura, de placer, de poder y de representación.